by April Lisante

Hanukkah is just four days away, and with it comes one of the oldest and most solemn food traditions. The latke is perhaps the most recognizable of the Hanukkah foods, served throughout the eight day holiday.

This year, I wanted to make some authentic potato latkes, so I called on a local lady who knows a thing or two about serving an amazing Hanukkah meal. Back in October, Susan Weiss and her husband, Dan, retired as longtime owners of the Chestnut Hill Cheese Shop, where Dan’s family sold cheeses and specialty goods that became a Hill tradition for more than five decades.  

After years spent working seven- day weeks and helping Hill foodies through the crush of the holiday gift basket and entertaining season year after year, they are enjoying their first holiday at home.  

Susan says they are “loving their rest and retirement” in their Chestnut Hill home, and she is looking forward to making latkes this year with her daughter Jacqueline, a California journalist who will return home next week to celebrate the holiday. Her other daughter, Gabrielle, is a mid- Atlantic regional director for a nonprofit organization for students supporting Israel. She will be in Israel for the entire holiday season, and will call home to video chat while they make the latkes.  

“Jacqueline loves to cook,” Weiss said. “When she was 10, I got her cooking lessons, and she loved it. Now she makes them with me. She always loves to make latkes, and we do brisket, kugel, the whole dinner.”  

Latkes have their roots in 14th century Europe, where potatoes were plentiful and cheap, and countries like Poland and Russia made them a staple.  

For Jews, frying the latkes in oil represents the miracle of the Menorah, which was supposed to have enough oil for one night but burned for eight straight nights in the holy temple in Jerusalem back in 165 BC, when Judah Maccabee fought the Greeks to regain possession of the temple.  

And as with many holiday cooking traditions, there are rules for making the beloved latkes in the Weiss family kitchen. Susan’s latke process is a beautiful one with very specific steps.  

“I prefer to use Russet potatoes, rather than the Yukon Gold,” Weiss said. “I also add the potato starch from the boiled liquid back into the mashed potatoes, and I add matzo meal to bind it. The starch makes it creamier in the  

center after it is fried. Weiss uses a cheesecloth and a wooden spoon to squeeze the potato and onion mixture dry before forming and frying the pancakes.  

When you are ready to fry, use canola or peanut oil, not olive oil. “Olive oil can’t handle the heat,” Weiss warns.  

Weiss heats about a quarter-to a half-inch of oil in a frying pan, then works with the “rule of four.” She forms her latkes into 4- inch diameter, quarter inch-thick rounds. She never puts more than four latkes at a time in the pan, to ensure even frying.  

“And the temperature should be no more than 375 degrees for the oil,” she said.  

When the latkes emerge from the oil, it is recommended cooks rest them on paper towels, which will absorb excess oil.  

Some people serve the latkes topped with honey or sour cream, but Susan isn’t having it.  

“I serve mine with apple sauce,” she said. “No sour cream.”  

I wondered what Susan and Dan will be up to after the holidays have passed, and the New Year rolls around.  

“Dan is definitely enjoying his retirement,” she said, adding she would be pursuing other business opportunities.  

“I am missing seeing all of our regular weekly customers and the friends we have made for years. We are wishing everyone a happy holiday and a wonderful New Year.”  

The Weiss Family Latkes

Makes approx. 3 dozen.

Time: 30 to 45 minutes

• 2 large Russet potatoes, scrubbed and peeled
• 1 large onion, peeled, cut into quarters
• 2 scallions, diced
• 2 eggs
• 2 tsp. coarse Kosher salt
• ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper
• 2 Tbls. matzo meal canola oil for frying apple sauce for serving  

Wash and peel potatoes. Grate the potatoes using a hand grater or the grating disc of your food processor. Set aside in a bowl.  

Add the onions and scallions to the potatoes. Allow mixture to sit for five minutes and drain excess liquid. Mix in eggs, salt, pepper and matzo meal. Thoroughly mix.  

Add oil to a large skillet and have heat on medium to high. Spoon approximately three tablespoons of batter for each pancake into the oil. Fry until each side is golden brown, about two to three minutes per side. Do not overload frying pan. Remove pancakes to a plate lined with paper towels.  

Serve warm with apple sauce. 3078