by Christine Wolkin

Lor Kats, head chef of the newly opened (April 26) Cooperman’s Deli in Mt. Airy, isn’t very fond of the title, “chef.”

“The funny thing is I don’t call myself the chef. I actually prefer to be called the head grandma,” said Kats. “I like getting a rise out of customers when [my employees] yell ‘Hey, grandma!’ and I come out of the back, and I’m this big, hairy Jewish dude.”

The 28-year-old, born and raised in Northeast Philly, recently partnered with local business entrepreneurs, husband and wife team Marvin and Jessica Graaf, to bring to the area something it was sorely missing, a Jewish deli. (The Graafs are not Jewish.)

“Marvin and I grew up raised by our grandmothers. A lot of times I say that Italian grandmothers and Jewish grandmothers are very similar. We just both understand that we grew up eating our grandmothers’ food, and we both have an appreciation for the value that that sort of nostalgia brings,” said Kats.

Northwest Philadelphia is home to both a religiously and culturally vibrant Jewish community. Mt. Airy alone boasts three Jewish congregations — Germantown Jewish Centre, P’nai Or Jewish Renewal Congregation of Philadelphia, and Chabad-Lubovitch of Northwest Philadelphia — but no Jewish sandwich shop.

“Nobody thought to bring matzo ball soup to the area which totally baffled me,” said Kats, whose robust twist on the traditional Jewish staple includes tender chicken and plenty of fresh dill, along with alphabet letter noodles. Kats and the Graafs, who also own Mt. Airy restaurant Cresheim Valley Grain Exchange and Germantown’s Pizzeria Nonna, were originally in the area for a different project.

It was actually the landlord of the building, Ken Weinstein, who inspired their next venture, according to Kats. “We ended up going a walkthrough for the other project, and the landowner said, ‘Oh, we have another piece of land. I could really see it being a sandwich shop; I would love a Jewish deli here,’” said Kats, who previously worked at another Graaf family establishment, the now-closed Falls Taproom in East Falls.

The Mt. Airy location, which served as Cooperman’s Pharmacy for 93 years (hence the inspiration for the deli’s name), received a complete renovation. Inspired by 1950s New York delis, Graaf installed black and white tile floors, wood tables and booth and walls that invoke old-school tin. Behind the counters, customers can even spot Kats’ grandmother’s old-fashioned milkshake makers, a nod to his grandmothers and their influence on his cooking. “Both of them were super-instrumental in raising me and in my food interests,” Kats said.

“My parents always wanted me to be a doctor or a lawyer, so I went to school for biology, neurology and psychology, all of these things that they wanted me to do, and ultimately I realized I really connected with food, and there was nothing I gained more happiness from than seeing somebody enjoy something I had cooked.”

While not kosher, the menu features a mix of traditional Ashkenazi (Eastern European) fare and unconventional twists. “The borscht is basically a dead-on vegetarian version of what my mother does and what my dad’s mother does mixed together with my own seasoning,” said Kats. “I decided I wanted to do everything in house, make everything from scratch and find a smoker. We went out and found maybe one or two vent-less, hoodless smokers you can do indoors that don’t create smoke. They’re really incredibly hard to find.”

There’s also plenty of fare on the menu for folks who aren’t looking for Jewish food, including chili, hot dogs and a variety of sandwiches and dessert drinks.

Cooperman’s deli has been open for less than one month, but news is traveling fast. “If you are ‘jonesing’ Jewish deli food in Mt. Airy, you won’t be disappointed. Great food made and prepared with love. And you won't find nicer people,” said David Pierce, a local resident.

The sandwich shop is open six days a week (closed on Tuesdays) and is located at 7060 Germantown Ave.

For more information, call 267-297-5295.