There’s nothing like a great sandwich – fresh ingredients, a signature sauce and great bread. Philadelphia’s most famous sandwich is, of course, the cheesesteak. But the city also has a rich history of producing some other iconic sandwiches.
“The city’s cultural and ethnic diversity has resulted in many of America’s most established meals between bread,” said Mike Madaio, who literally wrote the book on sandwiches. His “A History of Philadelphia Sandwiches; Steaks, Hoagies, Iconic Eateries and More,” tells the stories of how great …
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There’s nothing like a great sandwich – fresh ingredients, a signature sauce and great bread. Philadelphia’s most famous sandwich is, of course, the cheesesteak. But the city also has a rich history of producing some other iconic sandwiches.
“The city’s cultural and ethnic diversity has resulted in many of America’s most established meals between bread,” said Mike Madaio, who literally wrote the book on sandwiches. His “A History of Philadelphia Sandwiches; Steaks, Hoagies, Iconic Eateries and More,” tells the stories of how great sandwiches were created and became Philly favorites. The mouth-watering tales included DiNic’s original roast pork; porchetta, sharp cheese and roasted red peppers from Luigi & Giovanni’s; the Chicken Lorenzo from a Cut Above in Newtown Square, and Angelo’s Meatball Parm.
“Philly is the world’s best sandwich city, so I felt it was long overdue for a deep dive on the origins and evolution of not just the cheesesteak, but all the amazing sandwich creations throughout the region,” he said.
Madaio had to write the book after having, what it calls, “moments of sandwich bliss” in and around Philadelphia. His first was at DiNic’s in the Reading Terminal Market when he ordered the Chicken a la Rocco, a fried chicken cutlet slathered in a secret-recipe Dijon mustard sauce. He ordered it with “long hots,” and the result was a “sweet, smokey, spicy, crispy, messy” sandwich which he “still thinks about.”
“There is something different, ineffable even, about Philadelphia that other places can’t claim” about their sandwiches, he said. “It comes from a combination of many forces – including industrialization, a neighborhood-based culture, a strong street food scene and immigrant culinary traditions.”
On Sunday, Dec. 7, at noon, Madaio will share his research and insight into the history of Philadelphia sandwiches at the Venetian Club in Chestnut Hill, located at 8030 Germantown Ave. The talk is being presented by the Historic Foodways Society of the Delaware Valley, which has been educating the public about food history for over 30 years (historicfoodways.org). It is co–sponsored by the Chestnut Hill Conservancy.
The history of the sandwich goes back to 1770 when John Montagu, the 4th Earl of Sandwich, is said to have eaten meat between two slices of bread to avoid having to leave the gaming table, according to the Oxford Companion to Food. Of course, he is probably not the first person to put something between two slices of bread and hold it in his hands, but in doing so, he launched a “culinary revolution that has gained momentum ever since,” said food historian Andrew Smith in the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink. Sandwich recipes were first published in America in 1816.
Madaio’s lesson in the sandwich history of Philadelphia will start with the first great sandwich, the hot dog, and Philly’s twist on the America classic: the addition of a fish cake and pepper hash. Old Original Levis, formally located in South Philadelphia, was an institution since it opened in 1895. Levis served a “combo” as it was known. It was a cake made essentially from whitefish and mashed potatoes, shaped into a disk and fried. It was then smashed on top of a hot dog in a bun and topped with zesty mustard and sweet and tangy pepper hash. It was sometimes referred to as the “poor man’s surf n’ turf.”
He will go on to speak about the history of our own Chestnut Hill favorite, the Schmitter, and how the McNallys came to create it as well as the newest sandwich craze in the city, breaded and fried chicken cutlets topped with a host of different ingredients.
And of course, no discussion about sandwiches can be had without debating the bread and which brand is best. Some even contend that it’s Philadelphia’s rolls that make the sandwich, no matter the ingredients. Madaio even goes so far as to call Philadelphia, “the city of bread…erly love.”
If you go
What: “Beyond the Cheesesteak: The History of Philadelphia Sandwiches, a talk and tasting”
With author Mike Madaio
Where: The Venetian Club, 8060 Germantown Ave.
When: Sunday, Dec. 7, noon
How to attend: go to historicfoodways.org and click under upcoming programs
Tickets are $35 for Historic Foodways Society of the Delaware Valley and Chestnut Hill Conservancy members; $40 for nonmembers
Who is sponsoring the talk: The Historic Foodways Society of the Delaware Valley and the Chestnut Hill Conservancy
Have you tried these Chestnut Hill sandwich favorites?
The Schmitter — served at McNally’s Tavern. It is a cheesesteak–type sandwich served on a Kaiser roll with grilled salami and a “secret sauce.” Served at Phillies games when they first opened up Citizens Bank Park in 2004.
Kale Caesar Cutlet – served at Liberty Kitchen in Market at the Fareway. It is a breaded chicken cutlet, curly kale, pecorino cheese, crispy onions served with house Caesar dressing.
Banh Mi Tom – served at Saigon Noodle Bar in Market at the Fareway. It is a Vietnamese hoagie with grilled shrimp, pickled vegetables, sliced jalapeno peppers, fresh cilantro with a dab of sriracha sauce served on a crunchy Vietnamese baguette.
Corned Beef Schwartzie – served at Primo Hoagies. It is a hoagie made with corned beef, Swiss cheese, coleslaw and Russian dressing served on a sesame–seed bun.
Smoked Salmon BLT – served at Cake. It is Norwegian smoked salmon, bacon, bibb lettuce, plum tomato with tarragon mayonnaise served on pumpernickel bread.
Curried Chickpea Salad – served at Baker Street Bread Co. It is curried chickpeas and bibb lettuce served on multigrain bread.
Crispy Buttermilk Chicken Sandwich – served at Chestnut Grill and Sidewalk Cafe. It is fried buttermilk-battered chicken, mango cabbage & spinach slaw, chipotle cream on a brioche bun.
Bungalow Club—served at the Borscht Belt in Market at the Fareway. It is a triple decker sandwich made with sliced roasted turkey, bacon & Swiss cheese on rye toast with lettuce, tomato and mayonnaise.