Sliced, stacked and savored

Rediscovering the humble sandwich

A food writer's journey through Northwest Philadelphia, one delicious sandwich at a time...

by Neil Bardhan
Posted 9/30/24

Sandwiches are having a moment again. In modern history, they've been simple, deemed unhealthy (remember the Atkins diet?), and tossed aside for tacos or pizza, but the trends go on and on. If my Instagram and YouTube algorithms are to be believed, sandwiches are getting more interesting than ever, with previously unthinkable components coming together.

Let’s get my bona fides up front. I love sandwiches, both eating them and talking about them. I have spoken about them in multiple states, written about them at length for fun and profit, and thought about their construction since the …

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Sliced, stacked and savored

Rediscovering the humble sandwich

A food writer's journey through Northwest Philadelphia, one delicious sandwich at a time...

Posted

Sandwiches are having a moment again. In modern history, they've been simple, deemed unhealthy (remember the Atkins diet?), and tossed aside for tacos or pizza, but the trends go on and on. If my Instagram and YouTube algorithms are to be believed, sandwiches are getting more interesting than ever, with previously unthinkable components coming together.

Let’s get my bona fides up front. I love sandwiches, both eating them and talking about them. I have spoken about them in multiple states, written about them at length for fun and profit, and thought about their construction since the turn of the millennium. When I first moved to Philadelphia, I came to West Mt. Airy to be near friends and enjoy a relaxed, yet refined, set of neighborhood amenities. Years later, I’ve explored more of the city but still cherish a trip along Germantown Avenue and through the surrounding neighborhoods, especially when it involves eating a few sandwiches along the way. 

The Schmitter

It’s hard to eat everything in this town, right? Even if you’re just trying to hit the unanimous favorites. Perhaps here’s where you question those bona fides I trotted out a few sentences ago: I lived in Mt. Airy for four years and never made it over to McNally’s (8634 Germantown Ave.) for a Schmitter ($12.65). So I was tickled when it came up as a possibility for this project. 

I sat down with Anne McNally, who's been running the place her family founded for 42 years. I asked her what to expect from my first Schmitter. She told me “It's very unusual that someone says, ‘I didn't like it.’  

You've got to respect a spot that stands by its signature item so much that there's an original painting of it on the wall (by area artist Nancy Beck). 

Sure enough, the Schmitter is a great sandwich, with roast beef, provolone, salami and toppings on a kaiser roll. Mine came piping hot and cut in half. I delighted in the bright red tomato and charred onions, and my hands danced around the runny Schmitter sauce. Have your napkins ready! This was a fun sandwich to eat half of, take a break to run an errand, then come back to the second half. 

Veggie Hoagie & Eggplant Parmesan

I’ve come to deeply appreciate neighborhood pizza spots that do pizzas and sandwiches and sides. Cosimo’s (8624 Germantown Ave.) fits this bill perfectly, and I grabbed some sandwiches to go for a poolside picnic with friends. 

One selection was the veggie hoagie ($11.99). On this hot summer day, it came with summery zucchini shreds bathed in a blend of herbs. Topped with chopped grilled onions and peppers, this was a combination that I wouldn’t have made myself at home – zucchini was a surprise – but it served up a seasonal bite that worked great. 

We also grabbed an eggplant parmesan sub ($11.99) and opted for a layer of mozzarella. I joke that my wife has been craving eggplant sandwiches recently, after a lengthy period when only my homemade eggplant parm on spaghetti would satisfy her lust for a simple tomato sauce. (Her reply is that she’s asked for them twice in the span of a few months, so it’s not exactly a trend. She’s not wrong.) This was a straightforward sandwich that was exactly what we needed. The eggplant was breaded and fried well, the mozzarella was a light touch, and the sauce seemed to be made in-house.

Chicken Salad 

One of my go-to sandwiches is a chicken salad. I like them simple but I also like them with a flair. And so I found one at the Chestnut Grill and Sidewalk Cafe (8229 Germantown Ave.)

On an oppressively humid day, I plopped myself at the bar there. I found a friendly staff serving lunchtime wines to a few patrons and an inviting menu. The chicken salad sandwich quickly came out with hefty chunks of white meat, lots of lettuce and tomato. In a flair new to me, the Grill serves theirs on a sturdy raisin walnut bread. Would I have thought to use this bread myself? No, but that’s why I’m glad kitchens like Chestnut Grill are out there. I remembered how much I like some fruity sweetness and some nutty crunch in my chicken salad, so it’s exciting to see it in the bread for a change.  This sandwich was more than enough for a workday lunch, and the latter half held up nicely in my fridge for more days than I’ll publicly admit. 

Breakfast croissant & grilled chicken sandwich 

I was struck when I entered Matines (89 Bethlehem Pike), because this cafe is cute beyond belief. The owners have packed a gift shop between the entrance and the seating area, but it feels natural, not forced. French wares abound: Camembert potato chips, candles, housewares, fig syrups, teas, you name it. I ordered a breakfast croissant ($12.00) and caught at least two languages buzzing around me. The sandwich came with a tender soft scramble of eggs, riddled with black peppercorns. When you order, you can ask for Swiss or brie, but I went with a simple cheddar. Bonus: this is a breakfast sandwich that you can easily eat with one hand. I also picked up a Versailles baguette ($17.00), a grilled chicken breast sandwich that comes with a layer of leafy greens and avocado chunks. The dressing is listed on the menu as a truffle aioli, though I didn’t get the truffle punch that I was anticipating in the sandwich.

The Fat Dude

As a craft beer aficionado, I’ve enjoyed watching the growth of breweries and specifically the synergy they have with other local businesses. Deke’s (137 Berkley St.) is in the same building as Attic Brewing, though there are restrictions on passing food and drink between the two, so keep an eye out for the signs to that effect! 

I looked over the Deke’s menu and simply had to get the Fat Dude ($12.00). This combination of brisket, pork, sausage, onions and provolone cheese on a kaiser roll promised a stack of flavor and it delivered. The first bite of sausage hit me way harder than I expected, with spice up the nose enough to make me cough and tear up. What a wallop! If I have any feedback on this sandwich, it’s that I wish it’d come with a bit of sauce on the side for dipping. I will absolutely try the Stubby Chubby (beef & pork sausage, hot pepper relish, provolone cheese, mustard sauce) the next time I’m near Deke’s.

This Northwest sandwich hunt reminded me that there are gems “around the corner” throughout the city of Philadelphia. I’ve simply got to return to some of these spots and see what else they have for me on their menus. 

And I’m sure I’ve missed at least one of your favorite establishments: invite me out to a burger, a chicken parm sandwich, or your favorite Avenue hoagie spot sometime! What’s your neighborhood go-to? You can reach me at neilpbardhan@gmail.com and @knilegram on Instagram.