When I learned that Lassan, an Indian restaurant, had opened Sept. 14 at 539 Germantown Pike, just one minute from the border with Chestnut Hill (where Caspian Grille was for decades), my first thought was "How can they possibly succeed? There are already two good Indian restaurants in Chestnut Hill and two good Indian restaurants in Mt. Airy. Anyone who wants Indian food already has a wealth of choices in our area."

It just shows what I know. We visited the new BYOB on a chilly weekday evening in mid-October. There are only three tables with four seats each in the spartan front room, although they are renovating a back room that will add 30 to 40 seats. While there was only one other couple occupying a table during our visit, there was already a steady parade of takeout customers.

We quickly learned why. We have eaten at many Indian restaurants over the years, including those in other cities and countries, but Lassan has some dishes we have never experienced before — and they are ambrosial in taste with aesthetically pleasing, colorful presentations.

For example, Cauliflower Kerala was an absolute epiphany ($12), mining flavors that were natural and pure. It steeped the heady essence of coconut glaze and mustard seed with an extra punch of curry leaves. There is no asceticism when you devour this dish.

Roasted Pumpkin Chaat ($11) was a refreshing ode to autumn, with every element singing in harmony, especially the quality of the diced pumpkin married to a mixture of roasted cumin seed, Greek yogurt chutney, pineapple, pomegranate and mint cilantro that was absolutely ethereal.

Tandoori Jhinga ($20) was a beautifully presented, perfect suite of enticing flavors. Each bite of shrimp passed across my palate with a different balance of garlic, chili and turmeric. The cream cheese and sour cream marinade was, as Gordon Ramsay would say, "textbook." And the classic naan ($3.50), leavened flour served with three enticing chutneys, made me feel like a member of the Smile High Club.

Samundrie Khazana ($22) is a flavor blockbuster, higher than the batting average of most people who attempt to create this kind of drool-worthy dish. It combined shrimp, tilapia, scallops and squid with a homemade curry sauce that swims far from the mainstream. You actually have a choice of eight sauces, and I am anxious to try some of the others.

There are many vegetarian, vegan, dairy-free and gluten-free options on the menu, and the prices are extremely reasonable. Another impressive factor is that if you bring wine, you can get a large bucket with ice that can easily accommodate two bottles. Many small ethnic BYOBs do not provide ice buckets. On another issue, I am aware that many Americans are timid when it comes to trying spicy Indian food, but you can choose your own spice level at Lassan, which also delivers to homes in the Chestnut Hill area.

I could find only one Google review of Lassan so far from a Julia W., who gave it five stars, writing, "I am so impressed with how incredible the food from Lassan is. Exceptional flavors, many of which I'd never tasted, and I've been eating Indian food my entire life. It was AMAZING. The creative twist on the chicken taco was my personal favorite, the meat melt-in-your-mouth good. You have to experience Lassan. It is truly something special."

Lassan is the creation of Pema Lama and Shyam and Krishna Dimdung, chefs from Nepal with decades of professional experience at restaurants in the U.S., India and even Moscow, where Shyam Dimdung insists he "never cooked for Vladimir Putin."

The trio, in Philadelphia for 14 years, previously worked at Bombay Kitchen in Lansdale, Saffron in Bala Cynwyd and several Tiffin locations, including the one in West Mt. Airy. By the way, "Lassan" is a Hindi word for garlic, an important ingredient in much Indian cuisine.

Regarding the competition from the other Indian restaurants in or near Chestnut Hill, Shyam said, "We are not afraid of all the competition. I like competition. It will make me try harder to maintain the highest level of quality, consistency, service and flavors. We intend to have a place in Chestnut Hill eventually. My philosophy is soul, plate, tongue, taste and presentation, all in one dish. We will change the menu every three to six months. So far people have learned about us through our website, social media and word-of-mouth."

We walked out of the dining room at Lassan as happy as two people can be without arousing suspicion.

For more information, call 610-834-7660 or visit lassan.com. Len Lear can be reached at lenlear@chestnuthilllocal.com