Hiller’s recommendation for holiday dining a home run

Posted 12/12/18

An appetizer of basil gnocchi, “soft pillows of elegant pasta, packed the intensity of a laser beam … ”[/caption] by Len Lear I must admit this is a pretty threadbare “local angle,” but …

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Hiller’s recommendation for holiday dining a home run

Posted

An appetizer of basil gnocchi, “soft pillows of elegant pasta, packed the intensity of a laser beam … ”[/caption]

by Len Lear

I must admit this is a pretty threadbare “local angle,” but here goes: Our super-talented production manager, graphic designer and illustrator at the Local, Ray DeJohn, a joie-de-vivre gentleman who seems to know someone in every center city club and fine dining establishment, gave me a full-throated recommendation of Scarpetta, the two-years-old upscale Italian restaurant in the Rittenhouse Hotel, for holiday dining.

Scarpetta, which opened in late September, replacing Smith & Wollensky's steakhouse, established its cachet in Manhattan with a James Beard nomination for “Best New Restaurant in America” (in 2008) as well as a rare three-star review from the New York Times. It has since opened outposts in Montauk, Long Island; Miami, Las Vegas and Newport, Rhode Island, as well as Philly.

On the first floor of the Rittenhouse Hotel newcomer, there is a bar/lounge, usually beehive busy with 20 and 30-somethings during Happy Hour. The din is positively rock concert supersonic, so much so that we could not hear a word the hostess said to us, although we did see her lips moving. A beautiful young lady motioned us to follow her, as we did up winding stairs to a stunning dining room, much, much more quiet, with about 150 seats and a panoramic view of Rittenhouse Square with its sparkling Christmas lights. (Ask for one of the small tables near the window for the best view.

The name Scarpetta, by the way, comes from the Italian expression, “fare la scarpetta,” which describes the gesture of taking a piece of bread to soak up the remaining sauce left in the pot of one’s home kitchen. The restaurant’s name is derived from this familial gesture and represents the indulgent pleasure of savoring a meal down to its very last morsel of food.

And speaking of savoring a meal, I would say that executive chef Michael Loughlin wears talent like a second skin. He has bitten into his new job like a juicy peach. He's the can of Red Bull you need for a restaurant with this kind of pedigree. In addition to the regular menu, Loughlin is offering for the foreseeable future a four-course seasonal tasting for $60 with an optional wine pairing for $30.

According to Scarpetta's general manager, Drew Carballo, the former general manager at the fabulously successful Del Frisco’s, “The dining scene in center city is definitely changing.” (Photo by Len Lear)[/caption]

The late peripatetic chef/author Anthony Bourdain wrote in his first book, “Kitchen Confidential,” that if a restaurant offers “specials,” you should order them. The ingredients are sure to be fresh, he wrote, and the chef is bound to be energized and enthusiastic about his/her own “specials,” as opposed to a shrimp scampi dish that he has made over a thousand times and could make in his sleep.

And the “special” tasting menu at Scarpetta certainly lives up to its name. A duo of crudos, for example, raw trout and yellowtail tuna, plumb exquisite, subtle flavors from seemingly simple combinations and with a soft, sensuous texture. Eat this dish, and you will feel like a member of the Smile High Club.

Similarly, an appetizer of basil gnocchi, soft pillows of elegant pasta, packed the intensity of a laser beam, accompanied by nuggets of jumbo lump crab and an injection of tarragon. Loughlin also mined great flavors with a second handmade pasta bellwether, tortellini with preserved truffle and taleggio (semi-soft Italian cheese) that were a beacon of gustatory joy.

The chef showed a willingness to sidestep convention but remain technically rigorous with a sublime entree of branzino, an Italian sea bass, with lentils and broccolini. It was cooked to a greater depth of doneness than one usually encounters with sea bass, but it worked because it slipped across my lips and lingered like velvet.

And we both agreed that an ambrosial dessert of espresso budino was one of the greatest desserts we have ever tasted. It is a heavenly, gooey, ooh-aah combination of salted caramel, chocolate biscotti and hazelnut gelato that I would probably lick off a bicycle seat (but only if there were no plates or silverware available).

According to this foodie, “an ambrosial dessert of espresso budino … is a heavenly, gooey, ooh-aah combination of salted caramel, chocolate biscotti and hazelnut gelato.” (Photo by Len Lear)[/caption]

I would recommend ordering the wine pairing option because individual wines by the glass, although there is a fine selection, are overpriced, averaging about $16 per glass for what seemed like small pours. For example, a glass of Kenwood “Six Ridges” Chardonnay, 2016 (about five ounces), costs $16 here while an entire bottle (about five glasses) costs just $17.99 to $19.99, according to the Kenwood website.

According to Scarpetta’s friendly general manager, Drew Carballo (who, of course, knows Ray DeJohn), “The dining scene in center city is definitely changing. No more late night clubs with bottle service. We are going back to a true dinner experience of two to three hours, like they had 30 to 50 years ago. Personal service is key. Anything these restaurants serve, you can make at home (we wish!), so we have to provide exceptional service.”

This destination for fine dining in a refined setting still does retain the warmth of personal and polished service from a staff of very friendly and accommodating young people. Scarpetta has created an unalloyed contemporary dining experience with elegant food that lingers in the mind. For this kind of food, even a turtle would stick his neck out.

For more information, call 215- 558-4199 or visit scarpettarestaurants.com/philadelphia

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