May 3, 2007 Issue                                       

©2007 The Chestnut Hill Local

When the Katz away, the ‘M’ sous chef will shine
by LEN LEAR

Sous chef, Chad Jenkins (right), a graduate of the Restaurant School of Philadelphia, and a line cook, Jonathan Petruce, prepare a delicate quail dish at “M.” (Photo by Len Lear)

I was planning to interview and take photos of executive chef David Katz on Tuesday, April 17, when we visited M Restaurant, which has been getting lots of buzz since it opened last year at 225 S. 8th St. behind a wrought iron gate in the rear of the Reynolds-Morris House, a superb example of Georgian architecture that dates back to 1787. (The building, now called the Morris House Hotel, offers 15 guest rooms and extended-stay suites. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.)

A friend who lives in the Washington Square neighborhood had fallen in love with M Restaurant, which is across the street from Pennsylvania Hospital. They offer a contemporary, eclectic menu. (Needless to say, parking spaces are as easy to find on nearby streets as diamond rings.) “The food is wonderful,” said my friend, who lives one block from the restaurant and does not have to look for a parking space. “My favorite restaurant in this area used to be Washington Square, but now it’s Restaurant M.”

To get back to David Katz, the 30-year-old veteran of such restaurants as Salt, Lula, Avenue B and Pollo Rosso in Chestnut Hill already has more than 16 years of professional cooking experience despite his youth. Last October the Inquirer’s Craig LaBan, who can be brutal with young chefs (and old ones), wrote, “Chef David Katz is impressive, with a minimalist New American menu that focuses on great ingredients and vividly framed flavors.”

Thus, we were anxious to talk to Katz, but after dinner when we asked to speak to him, we were told, “I’m sorry, but he is not here tonight. Would you like to speak to the sous chef?” I did speak to the sous chef, Chad Jenkins, a graduate of the Restaurant School of Philadelphia, and a line cook, Jonathan Petruce, who explained Katz’ absence to me:

A dishwasher called in earlier in the day and reported that he had been robbed at gunpoint the day before on a South Philadelphia street. The thief stole the young man’s cell phone, among other things. As a result, Jonathan Petruce decided to call his co-worker’s cell phone number. When he did it, the robber answered and said he would return the cell phone for a $60 charge. He agreed to meet with the victim to make the transaction at a center city location. A time was agreed upon for the meeting.

Although “M” is in center city, their outdoor garden dining feels as if it’s out in the country.

Needless to say, the victim called police (Duh!), who sent out officers to observe the transaction while hidden from sight. The robber did show up with an accomplice, and as the transfer was taking place, the police showed up. One of the crooks ran away, and the other one was arrested. Chef Katz had gone with the dishwasher for moral and physical support, and we all assumed they had to go to the police station to help with paperwork and thus were not able to get back to the restaurant.

As for our dinner (definitely an anti-climax after hearing that story), the flavors were generally heavenly, although portions are small (by contemporary restaurant standards), and prices are high. For example, an appetizer of cauliflower risotto with thyme oil and black truffles had a divine texture and flavor but was priced at $14. Ditto for the seared scallops appetizer, whose presentation was a work of art and was also priced at $14. The “citrus-fennel salad” that was supposed to accompany the scallops was microscopic. A mixed lettuce salad with roasted Spanish almonds, goat cheese and a wonderful blood orange juice/olive oil dressing was impeccable but was $12.

A big eye tuna entree, served rare (I was not asked how I wanted it, and I did not think of it myself), was beautifully presented with braised Swiss chard, white bean ragout and a red wine sauce ($29). A black bass filet with artichoke barigoule and potatoes was in a sublime olive oil reduction that made for great close-your-eyes bread sopping ($28), although the bass and the scallop appetizer were not served hot and were barely warm.

The desserts were truly extraordinary — a dreamy liquid center chocolate cake with raspberry sorbet ($9) and even sexier caramelized banana tarte tatin with caramel gelato ($9). Again, the flavors were memorable, but the portions left us wanting more.

M Restaurant definitely has an extensive wine list, although they were out of the bottle we tried to order, a Trimbach Gewurztraminer. A sweet kir was perfect. A recent press release touted M’s “tempting array of signature cocktails,” but when we asked to see a cocktail list, the waiter said there was none. “The bartender can make whatever you want,” he said.

The owners of M Restaurant are Michael DiPaolo, a real estate developer, and Gene Lefevre, who owns other restaurants in center city. They refurbished and opened the boutique inn in 2004 and then transformed office space into the restaurant. It contains a rectangular dining room that seats about 40, with white table linens, comfortable leather banquettes, nondescript modern art on the walls, and an adjacent room with a 10-seat bar offering small plates and a selection of charcuterie and cheeses. Entrees are approximately $24 to $33.

M Restaurant definitely has one of the prettiest outdoor dining settings in center city. (We ate indoors because it was cold.) Most outdoor dining venues in center city are polluted by deafening noises of cars, buses, horns, cell phones, etc., and the asphyxiating, belching smoke of congested vehicular traffic. However, the 57-seat garden at M Restaurant, completely hidden from the street, is truly a quiet oasis punctuated only by dogwood and magnolia trees, blooming flower beds, a brick footpath and twinkling lights. The restaurant is open for dinner only on Tuesdays through Saturdays. For more information, call 215-625-2946 or visit www.mrestaurant.com.