November 23, 2006 Issue                                       

Click Here

©2006 The Chestnut Hill Local

Ooh, la, la: charming French brasserie in Skippack
by RICHARD S. LEE
and MARY PRICE LEE

Executive chef Steve Kraus and general manager Laura O’Mara keep things humming at Brasserie 73. (Photos by Richard S. Lee)

Skippack Village is one of our favorite places to visit. We call it The Thinking Person’s New Hope: half the kitsch and twice the parking. Once you pass Flourtown on Bethlehem Pike and turn left onto Skippack Pike (Route 73 West), the scenery is relatively unspoiled, given the massive changes that have taken place in our area. The village of Skippack itself is an architectural pleasure since most of the shops, restaurants and businesses are tasteful conversions of 19th century houses.

One that is not a conversion is Brasserie 73, next to the Roadhouse Grille (known for years as Skippack Roadhouse). It’s at Mensch Road and Skippack Pike. When he acquired the site over six years ago, David Markel, who owns both establishments, razed the take-out deli adjoining the then-Roadhouse and replaced it with a perfect replica of a classic French sidewalk café. Brasserie 73 has full beverage service, including an extensive wine list. (Brasserie, after all, means “restaurant that sells liquor” in French.)

Earlier this year, we sampled the wares while dining outdoors. It did look a mite pricey, and so it is — but not costly for value received, as we discovered when, in an indulgent mood, we did break the ice (but not the bank). This first venture inspired the following e-mail to Len Lear, Local Life editor, suggesting that he write an article about the place: “ ... our server, Carol, was witty, gracious and capable. The menu is well worth exploring for its interesting combinations such as Coquilles St. Jaques with a whispery-light sauce, not the usual drowning (of scallops) in cream, over (of all things) polenta ... be sure to have the sweet potato fries...elegant but not stuffy, etc.”

Carol Walsh serves up Supreme de Vollaille Farci Roti (roasted breast of chicken) and sweet potato fries at Brasserie 73.

Len kindly suggested we do an article on the restaurant, so we scheduled another Thursday lunch visit to meet the staff and take pictures — and to eat a lunch that for sheer size and pleasure was a virtual dinner.

In charge of everything for Brasserie 73 and Roadhouse Grille is another charmer: Laura O’Mara, general manager. This young lady came to the restaurant business by way of a nursing career that was halted by an injury. Through a friend, she started at the Roadhouse Grille in 2004 as a hostess, became assistant manager of both establishments in August, 2005, and general manager this past February.

The menu is the brainchild of Steve Kraus, the Brasserie’s 33-year-old executive chef.

Steve grew up in Northeast Philadelphia and Blue Bell. He earned a degree in Business from Temple, but is self-taught as a chef. He credits Donald Jonas, the owner of the Mainland Inn near Harleysville, and Dennis McLaughlin, its long-time executive chef, for being his mentors. (McLaughlin grew up in Chestnut Hill and was a protegé of Chef Tell, formerly of the Chestnut Hill Hotel.) He has been at the Brasserie for five years.

To say his menu is French is to call Heifetz a fiddler. Consider these dishes we enjoyed:

•Crevettes Eíí Paule — baked shrimp, served over an asparagus and white bean cassoulet with lump crabmeat, seafood pan sauce, toast points, $13.50. The shrimp were four giants and the cassoulet bountiful.

•Supreme de Vollaille Farci Roti — roasted breast of chicken, stuffed with baby spinach and Boursin cheese atop vegetable ratatouille, Dijon au jus, $13. A combination that worked beautifully.

•Grille Agneau Brochette — lamb medallions grilled, with chorizo sausage, vegetables and apricots, brushed with chipotle and honey syrup, sweet potato fries. $13.50. The sausage and syrup gave the lamb a new raison d’etre.

Among the generous desserts at $9 and $10, we chose a banana bread pudding, an inviting combination of banana bread, chocolate bourbon dipping sauce, caramelized walnuts and creme Anglais.

Brasserie 73, 4022 Skippack Pike, is open every day. Lunch daily, 11 to 4; dinner 5 to 10, Monday through Thursday, 5 to 11, Friday and Saturday. Open Sundays noon to 10. Reservations required on weekends: 1-610-584-7880.