February 9, 2006 Issue                                               

©2005 The Chestnut Hill Local

French Bakery a home away from home for Hillers
by JIMMY J. PACK JR.

The interior of the French Bakery is comfortable, homey. It's the kind of place you go to have a hot bowl of italian wedding soup while reading the chapter of a new novel, or to have croissants and coffee with friends before you start your day.

Sometimes you can go back home again, and that’s what three generations of some Chestnut Hillers have been doing every time they walk into the French Bakery, located behind Cosimo’s Pizza at 8624 Germantown Ave., where the cozy cafe keeps company with Monkey Business, a local thrift store.

The French Bakery sells more than baked goods. The interior is warm with vintage diner tables for two or wrought iron chairs and tables that look as though they should be lining the sidewalks of Paris. Antique baked-goods cases hold raisin scones, coconut macaroons, fresh-made butter pound cake and lemon poppy seed muffins. The ceiling is lined with vintage fabrics, and owner Marianne Dodge always makes sure that CDs of local musicians are piped in calmly while diners eat.

When Dodge opened the place in 1978, after leaving the corporate world, she had no idea her café would be one of the constants of Chestnut Hill.

“When we first opened,” says Dodge, “we had a heavy concentration on elaborate desserts. But the menu’s grown over the years and people’s diets change. And while we’re always introducing new items we seldom take anything off or change the name of customers’ favorite dishes.”

And that’s why you can always go back home again when you enjoy your breakfast or lunch at the French Bakery.

The sandwiches on split-top, toasted croissants make a perfect light lunch. Smoked turkey with melted Swiss cheese and mustard, roast beef with tomato and lemon-herb mayo, or there’s a 28-year-old favorite — the melted cheese and tomato.

“The soups change daily,” says Dodge, “but the French Market 18 bean soup is a customer favorite.”

Susie Meissler, of Andorra (left), and French Bakery owner Marianne Dodge, of Germantown, stand among the many temptations of the 28 year old café. (Photos by Jimmy J. Pack Jr.)

The hearty soup makes for great body-warming on chilly days. And if you’re really lucky, you can catch the tomato bisque.

Other menu favorites of locals include king crab salad with a tomato on a roll, or the garden salad with house vinaigrette.

There are even lighter items on the menu — a fresh fruit bowl, granola with bananas and milk, or a simple sliced brie with apple and a roll. Top it off with a chocolate croissant and a cup of coffee and you’re comfortably energized for the rest of the day.

“I’ve seen so many places come and go, “says Dodge, who works the place seven days a week. “The reason we’ve lasted so long has to be word of mouth.”

It also helps that the French Bakery is open on Monday, when many other restaurateurs take the day off. Add to that the fact that Dodge buys all her goods locally. “I like to keep all my business in the neighborhood,” she says, and it helps that many Hillers find the place so cozy for birthday lunches or more casual meetings.

“We used to be the meeting place for the Chestnut Hill Senior Center book club. They met here for about 18 years until the center moved their offices,” says Dodge. “And during Christmas we’re always picking up wrapping paper from customers who exchange presents. It’s wonderful knowing so many people who have been coming in here since they were kids. And then to see their children come in here and have lunch with their friends makes this all worth it.”

The French Bakery is open Mon. – Sat. 8:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., and Sunday 8:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. They do not take credit cards but do accept cash or personal check. For more information call Marianne at 215-247-5959