By Barbara Sherf

Cedars House Café on Forbidden Drive just off of Northwestern Avenue in Fairmount Park changed hands at the start of this year, and the cozy eatery is bustling with activity and some tweaks to the menu this spring.

Standing among tall cedar trees, the building formerly served as headquarters to Andorra Nursery and then as housing for park personnel. But the building sat empty for several years and was vandalized and in need of some TLC when Ricki Gever Eisenstein, who lives within walking distance, decided to turn it into a food and social hub.

In 2010 the Fairmount Park Preservations Trust leased the space to Eisenstein for 15 years, and Eisenstein, an avid runner, started offering healthy foods and a gathering spot for runners and park users. Last year Eisenstein started thinking about her next chapter, which was getting increasingly complicated with the needs of three young children, and was looking for someone to take over the reins.

She didn’t have to look far. In August, 2015, Jenny Tustin walked in and asked for a job.  Eisenstein hired her and was impressed that Tustin had worked at Roller’s, Noodles and Bredenbeck’s Bakery in Chestnut Hill and Goat Hollow in Mt. Airy. Tustin had also worked in catering in the area, “so it was a natural fit.”

At 46, with two grown daughters and a 23-year marriage that had ended, Tustin learned as much as she could about the front and back end of the restaurant and decided to take the leap. Eisenstein felt good about handing over her baby.

“Of course I still love Cedars House, but it was like raising my fourth child, and I had three kids at home and am still focused on raising them. Jenny is going to do a great job, and she has sisters to help with the business. I would love to see it continue to thrive,” Ricki said, adding that Tustin is sub-leasing the building from her.

“Every customer is so awesome,” said Tustin. “They never complain. And Ricki has been so helpful.” While she puts in 50- to 60-hour weeks running the café, Jenny also finds the time to coach Springfield Township basketball intramurals and St. Genevieve’s Catholic Youth League.

Cedars House Cafe offers breakfasts with organic cage-free eggs, lunch and snacks throughout the year. Menu items include La Colombe coffee, no-sugar-added smoothies, juices, power bars, yogurt, granola, homemade soups and sandwiches, quiche, salty snacks and more. Park users are encouraged to bring a doggy bag and a dog to sit outside and enjoy the spring weather.

Tustin’s sister, Mary Ellen Skarbek of Wyndmoor, a twin who was one of five children born in five and a half years. does all of the cooking. “We spar a bit behind the counter, but it’s all in good fun,” Jenny said.

FOW Executive Director Maura McCarthy said the eatery has always supported the organization with free food and space for lectures. “We enjoyed working with Ricki,” she said, “and thank her for making The Cedars House a great contribution to the community, and we look forward to working with Jenny."

Tustin shared her story while making a batch of homemade granola and bagging the mix for resale at Weaver’s Way Food Co-op. “It gives me something to do in between customers,” said Tustin.

“The food brings me here time and time again since it opened,” said Ellen Day of Chestnut Hill. “The soups are great, and she (Tustin) is very friendly.”

Tustin, who grew up in Mt. Airy, has an Associate’s degree in liberal studies from Montgomery County Community College and plans to continue on for a B.A. in Sociology at Temple University.

With its colorful walls and artwork, The Cedars House Cafe is used for parties, classes, lectures, fitness activities, weddings, writing circles and more. The upstairs hosts a wellness studio where guests can enjoy a massage or acupuncture experience.

Cedars House is open Monday to Saturday. 8 to 2, and Sunday, 10 to 3 for brunch. More information at 267-536-9533 or cedarshouseevents@gmail.com. Barbara Sherf tells the stories of businesses and individuals. She can be reached at CommunicationsPro.com.